Lou Dalton’s collection for AW15 was less a battle, but more of an alliance between uniform and comfort.
Utilitarian references were pulled straight from military uniform with dissected MA1 bomber jackets and boilersuits making up the collection’s flagship items. This was achieved by bringing internal panels outwards and zippers separating long-sleeved jackets into gilets, revealing colourful paneling underneath. These outerwears were then paired with oversized and slouchy trousers, with the ruching exaggerated in its near-metallic wool, or instead, a cozy teal jumper would be paired with wide, ankle-grazing tailored trousers.
The collection paid tribute to Thunderbirds’ 50th anniversary using Lanificio Cerruti fabrics (two institutions nowhere near related, yet an indirect collaboration only a contemporary maverick such as Dalton could pull off). Comic strips from the famous kids’ show were printed onto t-shirts and scarves, which peeped out from beneath the outerwear and provided a welcoming contrast to the predominantly colour-blocked collection. The garments, in varying shades of black and grey, were otherwise interspersed with blocks of blush pink, bright navy, forest verdures and burnt orange bleaching. Black-on-back itself was a key concept here, which applied itself to a distinguished tartan that featured across many of the styles on offer. It was, however, functional comfort and everyday tailoring that coloured the overall theme here, creating statement casualwear for a potentially, commercially-successful collection.